Waking up in Walhalla on a crisp autumn morning is like stepping into a painting crafted by the most skilled of nature’s artists. As dawn’s gentle light filters through the canopy of golden leaves, it casts a warm glow upon the quaint Victorian buildings that line the streets. The air is alive with earthy aroma and the sound of a babbling brook, weaving its melody through the sleepy town.

Stepping outside, the chill in the air invigorates the senses, awakening the soul to the beauty of the season. The trees stand proudly adorned in hues of amber, russet, and gold, their branches swaying gently in the breeze like dancers in a grand ballroom. A thin veil of mist hovers over the tranquil landscape, adding an ethereal touch to the scene.

Dana and I set about on our morning climb up to Walhalla Cemetery. The crisp autumn air filled my lungs with each deep breath. The path ahead rose steeply, a winding trail surrounded by dense forest. The sound of your footsteps mingled with the occasional chirp of a bird or the rustle of small creatures scurrying about.

As we climbed, the world below began to shrink, revealing sweeping vistas of the valley bathed in the soft light of dawn. With each step, I felt the burn in my lungs, a reminder of the physical exertion required to reach our destination. Finally, we reached the summit, where Walhalla Cemetery awaited in serene stillness amidst the tranquil beauty of the forest.

Here, among the weathered headstones and moss-covered monuments, we paused to catch our breath and take in the solemn beauty of our surroundings.

In Finland, there’s a unique cultural tradition of walking in cemeteries. It’s a time for reflection, remembrance, and connecting with the past. As a Finn, I’ve always found solace and a sense of connection in strolling among the gravestones, reading the names and dates etched into the weathered stone, and imagining the lives of those who have gone before.

What truly added to our visit to Walhalla Cemetery is the mutual enthusiasm Dana and I had for the experience. Americans and Australians don’t typically share the same enjoyment of wandering through graveyards as Finns do. However, Dana has always been the exception, deviating from the norms of her homeland in this regard. This morning’s visit to Walhalla Cemetery was no exception; we both embraced it with open curiosity and a genuine appreciation for the beauty and history that enveloped us. . Despite our different backgrounds, we found common ground in our appreciation for this sacred space and the sense of peace it brought.

Amidst the tranquil beauty of nature, lie the final resting places of pioneers, miners, and settlers who helped shape the destiny of this once-thriving gold mining town. Each gravestone tells a tale of triumph and tragedy, of lives lived to the fullest amidst the challenges of the rugged Australian landscape.

The incline of Walhalla Cemetery is so steep that some of its inhabitants are practically buried standing up. As you wander among the weathered headstones and uneven terrain, it’s not uncommon to come across gravesites where the ground seems to defy gravity, tilting at precarious angles that seem almost unnatural.

While descending back down to the township of Walhalla, I couldn’t shake the image of horses that would have once pulled the coffins up this steep hill, their hooves pounding against the earth as they laboured under the weight of their solemn cargo. It was a sobering reminder of the cycles of life and death that have played out on this hillside for generations.

As we emerged from the shadow of the forest and into the golden light of day, I felt a renewed sense of purpose and perspective, to cherish each moment and live with intention, mindful of the fleeting nature of life and the eternal legacy we leave behind.

In Walhalla, steep climbs are as abundant as the town’s rich history. For the residents of this community in the past, attending church on a Sunday morning was no exception. Picture the daunting steps one had to conquer just to reach the church.

What a stunning location for the town church, perched high atop a hill, its steeple and cross serving as a beacon for all who come to visit the town. And what breathtaking views awaited the churchgoers! I can envision the lively conversations that unfolded outside this magnificent church every Sunday morning.

The Goldfield Railways in Walhalla bear witness to a bygone era, a time when steam locomotives traversed the rugged terrain of the Australian wilderness in search of precious gold. Nestled amidst the breathtaking beauty of the region, this historic railway line weaves its way through towering forests, across babbling brooks, and past remnants of the town’s rich mining heritage.

A journey on the Goldfield Railways is more than just a scenic ride; it’s an opportunity to immerse oneself in the history and romance of the Australian gold rush. From the whistle of the locomotive to the rhythmic clack of the wheels on the tracks, every moment on board is filled with a sense of excitement and anticipation.

But perhaps what makes the train trip most special is the sense of community it fosters among its passengers. As strangers become friends and stories are shared over the course of the journey, bonds are formed, uniting people in a shared appreciation for the history and heritage of this remarkable region.

In typical fashion, Dana engaged in conversation with several other passengers. Meanwhile, I, still mindful of preserving my voice while recovering from laryngitis, exchanged only a few words with a charming elderly couple from France. Together, we marveled at the scenery and enjoyed the beautifully perfect autumn weather filled with sunshine.

However, the moment the train halted, I dashed out to secure the first spot in line to order a steaming mug of hot chai. Cradling it in my hands, I relished every sip of that liquid gold. Dana was quick to take a photo of it.

Following our visit to Walhalla, we continued with our journey to Old Gippstown. It comprises over 40 heritage buildings nestled within 8 acres of parkland, creating a historical village ambiance.

(Dana Knight photography)

What intrigued me the most were the personal narratives woven into each building. Take, for instance, the 1880s drop-log cabin. It served as the second building on the Caughey selection at Iguana Creek, near Lindenow. As the family expanded to eleven members, additional rooms were added. However, tragedy struck when Annie Morgan-Coughey passed away in 1895 during childbirth, giving birth to her twelfth child. She now rests in the small Glenaladale cemetery alongside her daughter, Alberta, who died at 21 months old in 1890 after eating wax matches.

We resumed our journey, setting our sights on Paynesville, where we are spending the second night of our road trip.

(Dana Knight photography)

Paynesville, nestled on the tranquil shores of the Gippsland Lakes, exudes a unique charm that captivates. What makes Paynesville truly special is its seamless blend of natural beauty and laid-back coastal ambiance. As the self-proclaimed “boating capital of Victoria,” it offers a paradise for water enthusiasts.

Paynesville was originally known as “Toonalook” which was the name given to it by the traditional owners of the land and water, the Gunaikurnai people. Toonalook is translated as meaning “plenty of fish”.

We’ve chosen to stay at the Mariners Cove Motel + Apartments, situated right on the waterfront. The views from our rear window and sliding door are truly breathtaking, and I was completely awestruck upon our arrival.

I found myself drawn to the bench behind our hotel, unable to tear my eyes away from the mesmerising scenery and its inherent beauty.

(Dana Knight photography)

The sun cast a warm glow across the horizon, painting the sky in hues of pink and gold as it dipped. Boats bobbed lazily in the harbour, their masts swaying in rhythm with the gentle lapping of the waves against the shore.

As I sat lost in thought, Dana relished a playful moment, striking poses at the end of the Paynesville jetty. Her laughter echoed in the air, capturing the essence of carefree spirit after a day of driving.

Dana and I took a leisurely stroll along the charming streets of Paynesville, soaking in the sights and sounds of this coastal gem. With the sun setting, we found ourselves in search of a cosy spot for dinner. After exploring our options, we stumbled upon a delightful Chinese restaurant called Tham Dynasty, and without hesitation, we decided to give it a try.

I enjoyed my spicy singapore noodles dish with a pot of Chinese tea. Tham Dynasty had exceeded our expectations in every way, and I knew without a doubt that I would highly recommend this restaurant to anyone visiting Paynesville.

As our second day of the road trip draws to a close, we’ve reached the coast and arrived in Paynesville. Today marked our final full day in Victoria. Tomorrow, we’ll be crossing the border into New South Wales.

Today’s travel map: