Historic Roads

We left behind our Forster farm this morning, a bittersweet departure underscored by the tranquillity that had defined our stay. The sun, in all its radiant glory, was shining brightly, casting a warm, golden glow over the landscape. As we sat outside on the verandah with our steaming hot drinks, we soaked in the serene ambiance one last time.

The chickens, which had become familiar companions during our stay, had taken shelter under a large, leafy tree nearby.

Leaving the farm was difficult. We had immersed ourselves in the simple, rustic charm of Forster farm life, where time slowed down, allowing us to appreciate the small, yet profound, joys of life. The days had been filled with the comforting background sounds of nature, like the chirping of birds.

Our stay had been marked by moments of quiet reflection. From watching the sunrise over the rolling hills to exploring the fields, every experience had illustrated the beauty and serenity that rural life offers. The farm had been a retreat for our minds and souls, a sanctuary from the demands of life.

The peaceful mornings on the verandah, the playful antics of the chickens, and the overall sense of contentment we had felt would remain etched in our hearts. The farm, with its macadamia nut and mango trees, laughing kookaburras, and migratory birds, had quietly stolen a piece of our hearts.

Leaving Forster, we headed south on the Lakes Way. The early part of the drive took us through the lush greenery of Booti Booti National Park, with glimpses of the sparkling waters of Wallis Lake on one side and the vast expanse of the Pacific Ocean on the other. This stretch of the journey was particularly captivating.

As we continued south, we passed through the small, peaceful towns of Pacific Palms and Smiths Lake, where the pace of life seemed to slow down even more.

Heading inland, the road wound through gently rolling hills and fertile farmland. The landscape here was dotted with dairy farms, and we saw cows and sheep grazing lazily in the fields. This part of the journey had a different kind of beauty, with wide-open spaces and a sense of tranquillity that contrasted with the coastal views earlier on.

Eventually, we joined the Pacific Highway, a major route that connects many of New South Wales’ key coastal towns. The highway section of the drive was faster-paced but still scenic, with stretches of bushland and occasional views of the Karuah River as we approached our destination.

Arriving in Karuah, a small town situated on the banks of the Karuah River, we were greeted by its peaceful atmosphere and the welcoming sight of the river. The town’s riverside park provided a perfect spot for us to relax and enjoy the view.

As I strolled along the river banks, I observed a group of school children on a fishing excursion. Their enthusiastic chatter and animated discussions about their catches brought a smile to my face. Among them, one little girl stood out as she consistently pulled up fish, while the boys marveled and joked about her success.

“How do you manage to get all the fish?” one boy exclaimed, his voice filled with a mix of admiration and curiosity.

I noticed the girl fishing in silence, patiently waiting for her line to tug, while the boys nearby were lively and loud, discussing everything from their techniques to the latest video games. It struck me that perhaps the secret to her success lay in the tranquillity she maintained, allowing the fish to approach without disturbance.

The Karuah River, has a rich history intertwined with both Aboriginal people’s culture and the colonial era, particularly involving escaped convicts.

For the Worimi people, the traditional custodians of the land around the Karuah River, this waterway has been a vital source of sustenance and a significant cultural landmark for thousands of years. The Worimi Nation, has a deep spiritual connection to the river, viewing it as a lifeline that provided fish, shellfish, and other resources essential for survival. They also utilised the surrounding bushland for hunting and gathering, and their oral traditions recount the river’s importance in their Dreaming stories.

The earliest Europeans to settle in the area around Port Stephens were a group of five escaped convicts from Parramatta in Sydney, who arrived after being shipwrecked in 1790. This group found themselves seeking refuge in the unfamiliar wilderness of the Port Stephens region, where they encountered the Worimi people.

The Worimi interpreted these white Europeans as the spirits of their deceased ancestors returned to them. This belief led the Worimi to accept the convicts into their community, offering them protection, provisions, and even wives.

For five years, the convicts lived among the Worimi, learning their ways of survival, customs, and traditions. They integrated into daily life, contributing skills and knowledge while forming deep connections with their newfound community. This period of coexistence was marked by mutual respect and cooperation.

However, the convicts’ peaceful interlude with the Worimi came to an abrupt end in 1795, when Captain W.R. Broughton of the HMAS Providence, a British naval ship, arrived in the region and recaptured them.

The story of these escaped convicts and their integration into the Worimi community in the Karuah River region for five years is a remarkable tale of cultural encounter and adaptation in Australia’s early colonial history.

True historical stories like these add an extra layer of fascination to places for me. But even without knowing the history, I would still have found the Karuah River stunningly beautiful and well worth stopping to admire.

Our drive continued along winding roads that wove through the picturesque Port Stephens hinterland, offering panoramic views of valleys and distant mountain ranges. This part of the journey was serene, with little traffic and ample opportunities to appreciate the unspoiled beauty of the region.

As we approached Raymond Terrace, situated on the banks of the Hunter River, the town welcomed us with its riverside parks and historical sites, hinting at a rich colonial past that shaped its present-day identity.

King Street is the original main street and business district of Raymond Terrace, up until the devastating 1955 flood which engulfed the Lower Hunter.

I was particularly intrigued by this street due to the significant buildings that embody the various historical stages of Raymond Terrace’s development.

One of the earliest photos taken of King Street is from the early 1900s, before power poles were erected.

(Photo courtesy of Raymond Terrace and District Historical Society)

We walked the street and admired the buildings.

Some of them displaying intricate beauty.

I imagined how vibrant the street must have been in the 1940s, bustling with cars lining its sides.

(Photo courtesy of Raymond Terrace and District Historical Society)

The cars and people’s attire have evolved since then, but the charm and character of the street remain timeless.

The locals were friendly, pausing for a chat right on the street.

Halfway along the street, there are two large trees known as the ‘marriage trees’. Before the town’s churches were established, locals used these trees for weddings.

There is another captivating photo in the Raymond Terrace Historical Society that grabbed my attention. It shows the Raymond Terrace Town Band from the 1900s-1910s. It’s fascinating to observe the attire people wore during that era, and I enjoy imagining what it would have been like to visit the place back then and hear the band play.

The photo not only captures a moment in time but also invites us to envision the sights and sounds of a bygone era, where community gatherings and music filled the air, adding a nostalgic charm to Raymond Terrace’s history.

(This image was scanned from an original glass plate negative, and kindly provided by Raymond Terrace Historical Society. Original glass negative created by Clifford Lyons)

As we departed Raymond Terrace, lost in historical thoughts, we faced another two-hour drive to our Airbnb in Sydney.

About 20 minutes into the journey, ominous dark clouds loomed ahead, creating a tunnel of grayness and signaling heavy rain ahead, though it had yet to reach us. Suddenly, the heavens opened, unleashing hailstorms that forced traffic to slow down and drivers to pull over. It became nearly impossible to continue safely, so I too found a spot to pull over and waited about five minutes for the worst of the storm to pass. It was a frightening experience, unlike anything I had encountered before.

Once the storm subsided, we resumed our journey. Before long, the skies cleared, revealing a tranquil blue expanse. The roads leading to Sydney were stunning, but by this point, I felt weary from driving.

The transition from peaceful countryside roads to navigating a bustling city was palpable. However, we eventually arrived safely at our Airbnb in Sydney’s Lane Cove area, which boasts a swimming pool at the back—a welcome retreat after the day’s adventurous drive.

We were greeted with a lovely note on the kitchen table that read, “Welcome! I hope it’s a happy stay!” It made me smile.

Our travel map today:


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12 responses to “Historic Roads”

  1. It’s nice when you find a place to stay which you don’t want to leave, it must have been exactly what you needed at that time, to rest and reflect, to wind down for a while….

    I liked that story about the children fishing! It reminds me of our Grandkids, they were on King Island last week to celebrate their dad’s birthday (our son), they went fishing off the pier, Jake caught a Grunter fish and some kind of shark, the same shark twice!! Jake is the quiet one, whilst our Harri, the noisy/chatty one didn’t, he only caught a small Grunter fish. 🎣

    The hailstorm sounds crazy! I’m glad it passed and you’re ok, I hope your car didn’t get damaged! Some of those hailstones can be huge, like golf balls.
    Enjoy Lane Cove and Sydney!

    Sirpa 🎣

    1. It was a very nice place, exactly what we needed.

      I like your fishing story too.

      That hailstorm was scary. Some people were quick-thinking and stopped under a bridge. I was worried about the lack of extra space there, so I pulled over a bit further along where there was more room, but we were under the open sky. I was concerned about hail damage to the car as well. Peter says he will check the car thoroughly today, but we think it’s okay.

      Thank you, Sirpa.

      1. Oh wow, how scary for you! Good thing you stopped the car! I think more bad weather is forecast up your way for the next few days, rain and flood warnings etc.

        Take care!
        Sirpa 💦

      2. Yes, I think the time of my endless blue skies might be coming to an end.

      3. Hehee, you may be right, the further south you travel the colder it’s going to be, but good ‘ol Melbourne weather might surprise you, it’s sunny here right now, but so so cold!
        There is always next time for QLD travels!
        You still have some time to enjoy your holiday though, so enjoy and make the best of what the weather dishes out for you.
        Sirpa ☺️

      4. Oh yes! Absolutely! We still have a whole week left, so we need to enjoy it!

        I love those cold Melbourne winter days with blue skies and sunshine!”

  2. Can understand why leaving Forster was bittersweet. It sounded like such an amazing place!

    The lakes remind me so much of the pictures you sent from Finland. Absolutely gorgeous! My heart skipped a beat ready you went through moo cow country. See any brown cows? Hahaha

    I absolutely adore the story about the girl fishing! Made me laugh her catching all the fish while those boys watched. She knew what she was doing. Love a good fishing story!

    The story of the convicts was quite a interesting. If I recall you told me a bit about that history because I remember you mentioning the “ghosts of their ancestors”.

    Raymond Terrace sounds like a very nice town. The pictures from the historical society are awesome. You can still see three of the buildings distinctly still standing in the pictures. Love when old buildings are preserved keeping their history alive.

    A hailstorm, oh my!!! Glad you pulled over and are safe! Hope there wasn’t any damage to your car. Those can be scary when you get caught out in one.

    A four hour drive can make you so tired. Bet that pool was calling y’alls name when you got there.

    Will you get to visit The Rocks Market again while you’re there?

    1. The lakes reminded us a little of Finland too; it was just the trees that were different.

      I did see some brown cows! Haha! I think we will start seeing more cows again as we travel further south from Sydney.

      That little fishing girl made me smile too!

      Yes, I did share some of that story with you. It is an interesting story.

      You would have shared my excitement about those old buildings in Raymond Terrace, for sure! To me, it was fascinating. I loved the way a local stopped Peter just to have a chat. He asked Peter if he was Scottish. Maybe Peter looks Scottish. Haha!

      That hailstorm was very scary. I didn’t really enjoy the drive after that because I was a bit shaken from it. Peter will check the car today to make sure there was no permanent damage.

      The pool was calling Peter’s name! It didn’t call my name! Hahahaha! Maybe I wasn’t listening.

      The Rocks Market would be nice if it’s not raining.

      1. I could hardly hear the pool’s call from its frozen lips…it sounded ” stay away”..

  3. I’m so glad you got to see brown cows! HAHAHAHAHA

    We would have shared that excitement about those old buildings. You and I love that kind of stuff and notice the big and small details. He asked Peter if he was Scottish? I don’t see it. He doesn’t even have that Scottish skin like I have. And I am mostly Scottish. Hahahaha Peter looks Finnish to me!

    Ahhhh you didn’t hear the call of the pool. Hahaha

    If you make it to The Rocks Market, look for the girl with those pants I liked so much. If you could get her card for me, that would be great. I looked when I got home and couldn’t find it. Wish we could have spent more time there when we went.

    1. Yes, Scottish! Peter said, “No, I’m Finnish.” The bloke was a local but originally from England, but it turned out Peter had lived in Australia longer than he had!

      Yes, if we go to The Rocks markets, I will.

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