We woke up on a farm in Mount Adrah this morning. As dawn broke, I heard Peter go outside and start talking. This wasn’t unusual; Peter often converses with the birds that visit us—magpies, blue wrens, kookaburras, and butcherbirds are his usual companions. I listened to his voice mingling with the early morning sounds, curious about which birds had come to greet us today.

Eventually, my curiosity got the better of me, and I decided to check it out. To my surprise, there were no birds in sight. Instead, standing a few feet away from Peter, were two pregnant goats. Their soft, inquisitive eyes were fixed on him, their ears flicking back and forth as they took in his words.

The goats, with their rounded bellies and gentle demeanour, seemed to have come to wish us a happy morning. They were curiously looking at Peter, perhaps trying to figure out what to make of this human who was talking to them as if they were old friends. Peter, for his part, appeared to be thoroughly enjoying their company and I couldn’t help but smile at the unexpected visitors.

From Mount Adrah, we drove to Albury. We had only one destination in mind: Harris Farm Markets. Both my son and nephew had recommended it to us, so our expectations were high. As soon as we arrived, we realised we wouldn’t be disappointed.

The markets reminded me of Finland’s supermarkets, which are known for their various specialised sections. Harris Farm Markets had different compartments, each dedicated to a specific type of product. There was a smallgoods section, an ice creamery, a bakery, a bottle shop, a florist, and areas for seafood and fish, fruit and vegetables, dairy and cheese. The diversity of choices was astounding.

Among the charming aspects of the market were the in-house dining options. There was a cosy café with a fireplace, making it a perfect spot to relax, especially on a chilly day. The market also featured various other eateries and a playground for children to keep them occupied.

The overall ambiance of Harris Farm Markets was unique and playful, almost like stepping into Willy Wonka’s factory. The sense of fun and the impressive range of products made the space truly special. As we explored each section, we marveled at the variety and quality on offer.

We left the markets and just like that, we were back in Victoria! We didn’t even notice crossing the border. I hadn’t been to my home state since the 16th of May, so it felt kind of special as I looked at all the Victorian number plates on the cars around us.

Our route today took us to the well-preserved historical town of Beechworth in the northeast of the state.

Beechworth is famous for its major growth during the gold rush days of the mid-1850s.

The town is carefully and tastefully preserved, boasting 30 National Trust-listed buildings.

Like many Australian country towns associated with the early goldfields, Beechworth had its share of colourful characters and villains. Among them was the infamous outlaw Ned Kelly, who had many links to Beechworth.

Today, Peter and I went on an hour-long Ned Kelly walking tour, where we learned a lot about Ned from David, our knowledgeable guide.

(Photo taken by Peter)

However, it was Ned’s mum, Ellen, who, in my opinion, stole the show. Her story captivated me the most during our visit to this charming and historically rich town.

What an incredible woman. Her strength and tenacity left a permanent mark on history.

Born Ellen Quinn in 1832 in Ireland, she emigrated to Australia with her family as a child, seeking a better life. In 1850, she married John “Red” Kelly, an Irishman who had been transported to Australia for stealing pigs. Ellen’s family didn’t approve of the relationship, so the young couple escaped to Melbourne to marry.

Ellen’s life was one of hardship and relentless struggle. After her husband’s death in 1866, she was left to raise her seven children alone in a harsh and unforgiving environment. Despite the constant challenges, she remained a pillar of strength for her family, fiercely protective and unwavering in her support.

Ellen lived to the age of 91. Throughout her life, Ellen Kelly was a symbol of resilience. Her story is intertwined with that of her son, and we might not even know about her had he not become an outlaw, but she stands out as a formidable figure in her own right.

Ellen’s story is one of a mother’s unbreakable bond with her children and her unshakable determination to protect and provide for them, no matter the cost.

The world is a small place, and sometimes we experience this in unexpected ways. Today, during our Ned Kelly tour, we met a Australian-Canadian-American couple who, to our surprise, know my brother. After the tour, we enjoyed getting to know each other over a cup of coffee at Beechworth Bakery.

They were on their way to host an art exhibition in Wangaratta and decided to spend a couple of days in Beechworth. It was a delightful and serendipitous connection that added an extra layer of enjoyment to our visit.

From the short time we had to chat with each other, I realised that we had a lot in common. Our conversation flowed easily, revealing shared interests and similar perspectives.

Our Airbnb for the night is the original shopkeeper’s residence of the Mackenzie family store and grocer, nestled within the historical Beechworth Conservatory accommodation built in 1855.

Megan and Ollie have lovingly restored it, filling it with antique furniture and an abundance of indoor plants.

I simply adore this place.

The Beechworth Conservatory Café, managed by Megan and Ollie, is conveniently situated next door to our green-fronted residence.

Megan and Ollie, started The Conservatory as a design studio, bought an espresso machine, and opened its doors to the community in 2021. I love their enthusiasm for life and their passion for what they do. They say, “Who knows what the future looks like… that’s why we focus on today because… today is a good day, to have a good day!”

When we stepped inside this charming Victorian house, I felt like I had stepped back in time.

It has such a warm and inviting ambiance, it’s exquisite.

Such a unique setting.

We were welcomed with lovely notes and gifts, and we’ve been invited to join Megan and Ollie for a cuppa tomorrow morning.

This place fills me with such joy that I find myself reluctant to fall asleep, not wanting to miss a single moment of being here. The walls resonate with history, each corner whispering stories to me. They tell of the days when the Mackenzie family inhabited and operated their store here, a business that spanned over a century. The depth of this place’s past envelops me, making every moment here feel rich with significance and wonder.

The creak of the floorboards underfoot seems to echo with the footsteps of generations past, as I wander through the rooms, I imagine the bustling activity of the Mackenzie family store, imagining the shelves stocked with goods, the counter where transactions unfolded, and the bustling life that once filled the walls.

(Mackenzie’s Family Store in 1886, History of Beechworth)

It’s a feeling of being connected to a bygone era, where the past seamlessly merges with the present, creating a timeless sanctuary that I find both comforting and deeply inspiring.

We set off for an evening stroll, relishing the charm of the local area. As we walked the neighbourhood, a majestic king parrot perched in a nearby tree, almost as if it had been waiting for our arrival. Its vibrant plumage added a splash of colour to the tranquil surroundings, a delightful surprise during our walk.

Amidst our exploration, the nearby heritage-listed Newtown Bridge captured our attention. Its sturdy stone arches and intricate design spoke of a time long past.

The evening walk became a journey of discovery and appreciation for the place we were fortunate to experience.

If any of you, like me, treasure history and appreciate well-restored dwellings, I would highly recommend staying at the Beechworth Conservatory. Even if you’re just passing by, I encourage you to stop at the Conservatory café to say hello to Megan and Ollie and experience the charm they’ve cultivated in this historical gem.

Whether you’re drawn by the beautifully preserved architecture or the warm hospitality, a visit to the Conservatory promises a delightful glimpse into Beechworth’s rich heritage.

I have truly cherished every moment here in Beautiful Beechworth. From its historic streets lined with heritage buildings to the welcoming embrace of local cafes and shops, this town has captivated me. Beechworth’s charm and character has left me eager to return and explore more of its hidden treasures.

Our travel map today: